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| A beautiful seluded beach on an island in Phang-nga Bay. |
A Closer Look at
Exotic Thailand
A misty breeze muffled the growling motor of our long-tail boat as we navigated through a dramatic maze of limestone pillars that towered above the emerald-hued water like mountain slices randomly dropped from the heavens. After several hours touring the mysterious ocean landscape in search of secret caves and hidden lagoons under the cloak of a morning haze, the tropical sun finally emerged to warm the rocky cliffs and spectacular beaches of the Andaman Sea.
The massive limestone blocks form a collection of more than 40 islands within the 155-square-mile Phang-nga Marine National Park made famous by Bond…yes…James Bond. Probably the most photographed spot in all of Thailand is a rock formation known locally as Ko Tapu, aka, James Bond Island. Once used as a location for the 007 classic The Man with the Golden Gun, the island today accommodates a flood of tourists who make the day-trip across Phang-nga Bay from the popular resort towns of Phuket and Krabi.
Phang-nga Bay is a huge shallow bay fringed with extensive mangrove swamps. While most of the islands in Marine Park are uninhabited, some of the larger islands are home to vibrant local communities, fishing villages, rice fields and rubber farming, as well as family-owned tourist bungalows. Every morning, fishermen in their long-tail boats can be seen using the aquatic highway to ply their trade in the mangroves.
A little farther south, where Phang-nga Bay opens to the Andaman Sea, two small islands connected by a sandy isthmus also became famous through the magic of film. The islands, known collectively as Ko Phi Phi, were the picturesque backdrops for the 2000 movie drama The Beach, staring Leonardo DiCaprio. With its brilliant beaches, stunning geography and a growing band of luxury resorts, Ko Phi Phi is one of the top tourist destinations for sun-seekers from around the world.
For many visitors to Southern Thailand, the Andaman Coast presents an irresistible combination of natural beauty, luxurious accommodations and exotic adventure. The gateway to this tourist paradise is Phuket Island, the so-called “pearl of the Andaman.” Phuket is a prosperous island with a curvy western shoreline and nearly unbroken chain of stunning beaches. As a tourist playground, Phuket has everything: breathtaking landscapes, beach life, nature trails, diving, golfing, watersports, dining and nightlife.
Farther up the Andaman coast, about an hour north of Phuket, Khao Lak is another tropical paradise, with long stretches of white-sand beaches and some of Thailand’s newest and most tranquil beach resorts. With easy access to the Surin and Similan islands, and a beautiful coral reef just a short boat ride away, this area is a world-renowned dive destination. Nearby Khao Lak and Khao Sok national parks offer nature lovers and adventurers some of the world’s oldest forests, beautiful lakes, cascading waterfalls, and the opportunity to trek through rainforest, mountain bike, rock climb and kayak.
While most visitors to Thailand head straight to the beautiful beaches, resort hotels and famous spas to enjoy a luxurious vacation and bathe in the tropical sunshine, the lucky ones are also touched by a fascinating culture infused with Buddhism. Nearly 95 percent of the Thai population is Buddhist, and almost every village in Thailand has at least one temple, or Wat. Even in the modern capital of Bangkok, it is impossible to miss the historic spirituality that is the foundation of Thai society.
Once known as “the Venice of the east,” Bangkok can at times feel like a traditional Thai village struggling to retain its warmth and spirit as it quickly transforms into a modern concrete jungle. Side by side with contemporary luxury malls and skyscrapers are holy temples receiving daily devotions and authentic street markets bustling with activity and the smells of exotic food.
Originally a small village on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, modern Bangkok (officially known as Krung Thep—City of Angels) was established in 1809 when the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew were carved out of swampland. With its massive white walls and brilliant orange, green and gold rooftops, the Grand Palace was once the home of kings. While no longer a royal residence, the small walled city houses more than 100 buildings, temples and statues.
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| The massive 150-foot gold Buddha of Wat Pho in Bangkok |
Adjoining the Grand Palace is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew. Truly an architectural masterpiece, Wat Phra Kaew houses the Emerald Buddha, the jade image that is the spiritual symbol of the Thai nation and honored as one of the country’s most important monuments. But arguably the most impressive Buddha for Western visitors is just south of Wat Phra Kaew at Wat Pho. Molded out of plaster and finished with a thin veneer of gold leaf, Wat Pho features the largest reclining Buddha in Asia. The massive 150-foot Buddha illustrates the achievement of nirvana.
To visit Wat Arun, the final point in Bangkok’s holy temple triumvirate and one of the most recognized landmarks of Bangkok, I again boarded a long-tail boat for a tour of the Chao Phraya River and a glimpse at the city’s watery past. While tuk tuks and taxis are the modern tourist conveyance of choice, and the famous floating markets have moved out of the city, the still vast network of tributaries and canals continue to be integral to Thai life in the neighborhoods near the river.
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| The Temple of Dawn |
The Temple of Dawn, known to Thais as Wat Arun, was until recently the tallest building in the city, sited on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River. Towering above the river skyline like the limestone pillars of Phang-nga Bay, the royal temple looks deceptively simple from a distance. But as you climb the steep staircases leading to platforms that circle the base of the 272-foot tower, you see that the magnificent structure is adorned with ornate floral mosaics made with tiny pieces of porcelain originally brought to Bangkok as ballast in Chinese trading ships. Like many things in Thailand, the view from a distance is often quite different than the more complex beauty revealed by a closer look.