The Grass is Always Greener in Ireland

Blarney Castle dominates the grounds of its estate.

21st-century mindset, timeless landscape

By Bob Ecker

>Dublin
>Southeast
>Ballymaloe
>Cobh
>Cork
>Waterford

The gentle rolling hills and roads in Ireland were wet as usual. “Ah, we call it a soft morning—good for the skin,” said fair Irish lass Ellen Redmond. Indeed, a little misty rain never hurt anybody, and happily, due to abundant moisture and a mild climate, Ireland bursts with greenness all year round. Though not a large country by U.S. standards, Ireland has many distinct stories to tell, in every direction. No matter where you travel, Ireland will impart history and charm, mystery, surprises and laughter.

Dublin

Colorful doors grace buildings along the streets of Ireland. Photo by Bob Ecker

Visitors to Ireland almost always enter Dublin first, the capital, entry point and by far the largest city. Dublin has emerged to become one of the most exciting, hopping-est cities around. There is a vibrant, young, educated air about the place, plus Ireland’s economy is booming. Dublin is a cosmopolitan modern city full of history, a tremendous literary tradition, revolutionary spirit, and wonderful hotels, restaurants, pubs (sample Smithwicks) and nightlife. The Craic (conversation), they say, “is mighty” in Irish pubs. 

The days of finding only fish and chips or hearty Irish stew have long since passed. Instead, diners are likely to start with a silky potato and leek soup, or celery root purée, fresh Castletownbere mussels or Donegal Irish premium oysters, then an entrée of succulent saddle of venison or fresh salmon celery root purée soup or a whole poached wild Irish salmon with buttery fennel sauce. Ethnic cuisines of all types, as well as internationally recognized fine cuisine, have augmented—though not replaced—traditional Irish cooking. Great restaurants like Chapter One, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud and the Bang Café make Dublin a culinary delight. Wine bars are popping up all over, including Le Cave, just off of Grafton Street.

Visiting Trinity College is a must, particularly the scholarly library dating from 1729. What a magnificent seat of learning! This library houses every first edition book in English from all over the world since 1729. It is an impressive place, smelling of old wood and vellum. The ancient and colorfully detailed Book of Kells, dating back to the 800s, is on permanent display here. Films such as Educating Rita, Star Wars and The Bourne Identity were shot inside. 

Southeast

A medieval doorway at the Rock of Cashel overlooks the Killarney countryside. Photo by Bob Ecker

When traveling through the “Sunny Southeast” (it’s all relative) or practically any other region of Ireland, visitors will discover ruins from the ages dotting the landscape. Some are Prehistoric, Neolithic, Celt, Roman, Viking, Anglo-
Norman and then different varieties of English architecture.

Large castles, monasteries, churches and very tall round towers (such as the one in Glendalough) also are fascinating to visit. No one knows for certain what the role of Round Towers were, but speculation includes bell towers, treasure vaults, lookout towers and more. What is known is that many remain tall and silent, often surrounded by leaning, by-now-smooth gravestones and silent crosses watching the countless green moors of Ireland.

One of the most famous fortresses still standing is the Rock of Cashel, prominently jutting out above the Tipperary plains. This cold, forbidding limestone church/seat of power dates to the 12th century, although it is believed that there was a settlement on this site as far back as AD 370. St. Patrick (patron saint of Ireland) visited Cashel in AD 450.

Remains of what was known as small “10-pound castles” can be seen, some looking like rubble while others have been fully restored. There were once over 4,000 in Ireland dating back to the 13th century. These were small, inexpensive castles of the nobles, constructed to take advantage of English Royal subsidies.

Ballymaloe

An intriguing stop in Midleton, particularly for foodies, is at the famous Ballymaloe Cookery School, run by internationally known chef and teacher Darina Allen. Considered the center of the Irish culinary world, many top international chefs have passed through this school, as well as quite a few home cooking enthusiasts. Now in its 25th year, Allen speaks highly of learning from her mother Myrtle, who still runs a charming inn nearby. “She cooked the sort of good local food she knew how to cook,” said Allen.

Allen is encouraged by all the recent interest in organic cooking and farming. “Something is happening on a grass roots level.” The Ballymaloe Cookery School offers courses from one hour up to a professional three-month course. It’s a fun place to see; the gardens are quite spectacular, and ask to see Allen’s amazing little “Shell House.”

Cobh

Immigrant Annie Moore’s dreams are evident as she faces New York at the Cork-Cobh Memorial. (Her New York counterpart faces Ireland.) Photo by Fáilte Ireland

The quaint town of Cobh (pronounced Cove) lies across the water from Cork, and evidence shows that ancient Phoenicians, Celts and Christian monks landed in this harbor long ago. There is but a single entrance to this protected harbor, one of the largest deepwater natural harbors in the world. Three maritime-related events make Cobh a special place to this day. 

The town—called Queenstown until 1922—was the central exit point for Irish emigration. It was the debarkation point for millions of people escaping poverty and the potato famine in the 19th and 20th centuries. A sobering exhibit inside the Queenstown Heritage Center depicts the conditions that emigrants endured. The Queenstown Story is spellbinding and tells an often gruesome story of Irish Emigration to America, Canada, Australia and other lands. Between 1848 and 1950, nearly 6 million Irish left their native lands, with 2.5 million leaving from Cobh. (A statue of Annie Moore, a 15-year-old from Cork who was the first immigrant to pass through Ellis Island on Jan. 1, 1892, stands in Cobh as well as in New York.)

Cobh also is infamous as the last port of call for the Titanic. Local professor Michael Martin conducts “Titanic tours,” which provide a wealth of local Cobh color as well as information. For instance, Father Brown, a Jesuit priest, was one of the eight people who got off the Titanic in Cobh before the ship left on its ill-fated voyage. Father Brown shot 79 photographs of the vessel, which were the last ever seen of the ship. Another story involves a Titanic trimmer (a balancer of coal) named John Coffey, who smuggled himself ashore. He stated that he had a “bad feeling about that ship.” At the time, Coffey was ridiculed. One hundred thirteen people boarded the Titanic at Cobh; Mr. Martin brings these harrowing yet true tales to life.

Lastly, Cobh was also the last port for the Lusitania, which on May 7, 1915, was torpedoed by a German U-boat off the Irish coast. Seven hundred people were rescued, many by local fisherman, yet 1,198 passengers died. Both survivors and victims were brought to Cobh and helped by townspeople. A Lusitania memorial stands in Casement Square opposite…the Lusitania Pub!

Cork

The shores of Ireland provide fresh seafood, a staple in Irish dishes. Photo by Tourism Ireland

The second largest city in Ireland, Cork is a bit rougher, but quite lively. One site to explore is the English Market in the center of the city, established in 1610. It is so-named because originally only the English, not native Irish, were allowed to enter. A thriving market packed with delicious goodies, visitors are bound to get hungry, so go upstairs for a treat. The Farmgate Café is one of the finest restaurants around, but set in a humble atmosphere—right above the hubbub of the market. (Diners can look out and see the action below.) Staples include corned mutton and beef, trip and drisheen, and pork loin and bacon. All the produce comes from local producers or from the market itself. The tender pork loin with smoked bacon is fantastic! The drisheen—an Irish variety of black pudding—is, ugh, not for the faint of heart. 

Many art and music festivals take place in Cork throughout the year, including the Fringe Festival, Cork Midsummer Festival and a large jazz festival. 

Waterford

Waterford Crystal, located in Waterford, offers visitors an impressive tour of the crystal factory. Most Waterford pieces begin as balls of molten crystal, hand blown in the hot furnace room. They blow, turn and shape, blow, turn and shape until the desired size, shape and thickness is achieved. Each and every bowl, goblet, wineglass, vase or gift is skillfully hand cut by men using diamond blades, then polished and inspected three times. “It’s always wheel to crystal, crystal to wheel,” said Louis Flynn, Waterford visiting room manager, while holding up a striking little sea horse ornament—the symbol of Waterford. The experienced craftsmen must memorize over 100 separate patterns, none of which is ever discontinued. One thing impressed upon visitors from the start is that Waterford produces no seconds—ever! The many elaborate Waterford trophies are on display for events such as the Ryder Cup, Kentucky Derby and Super Bowl.

Dublin is definitely a wonderful, fun city, but much of the true spirit of Ireland and its people exists away from the capital—in the hills and valleys, rugged coastlines, churches, small towns, old castles, and, of course, the thousands of “luvely” pubs scattered across the country inhabited by some of the most fun-loving people on earth.

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