Quebec City | July/August 2008

Fireworks at Chåteau Frontenac.

An aroma of roasted pig and herbs fills the air, as a young lad recites Shakespearean verse amid the medieval music of flutes and harpsichords in the background. Donned in 17th-century attire and colorfully corseted with an abundance of crinolines, three giddy ladies pass through the cobblestone streets flickering their fans. The clicking sounds of the horse-drawn carriage diverts my attention as I try to absorb the endless energy spiraling around me on the streets of the Old Quebec City.
I was a festivalgoer during the first week of August, when each year at this time Quebec City celebrates being French. The city normally attracts some 4 million visitors a year, with Americans being the largest number of foreign tourists. This summer there will be even greater fanfare as the city commemorates its 400th anniversary with 120 days of non-stop activities and celebrations going on through September.

First founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain, Quebec City became the cradle of French civilization in America. Today, 98 percent of the population is French speaking. The dialect spoken, though, is quite different from the French spoken in France.

The city, encased in 4.6 miles of 40-foot-high walls built by the British in the 18th century to protect itself from American attack, makes Quebec the only fortressed city in North America. A pleasant pastime during a warm summer evening is a stroll along these historic ramparts.

Festival actors.

Just beyond the walls is the Plains of Abraham, named after Abraham Martin, who brought the first colonists here. Once a national battlefield sprawling 267 acres, the Plains are now a picturesque park for dog walking, bike riding or just enjoying a leisurely walk.

Strolling through the narrow, winding stone streets of Old Quebec is like sleepwalking through a storybook. It is no wonder UNESCO declared the city a “World Heritage Treasure.” Another noted landmark, the Notre-Dame des Victoires Church, built in 1688, is the oldest stone church in North America. There is no shortage of churches in Quebec City. Although some 80 churches have been constructed, many were de-sanctified—with alters removed—and re-created into concert halls, public libraries and even a circus school. I stepped into many a holy establishment during my week’s stay.
The Fairmont’s Le Château Frontenac is by far the most dramatic and well-known site, jutting out in all
its grandeur in the middle of the Old Town Square overlooking the St. Lawrence River.

This fabled chateau has been operating since 1893 and has been host to a lineage of celebrities and politicians. This long list includes Princess Grace of Monaco, Charles Lindbergh and Alfred Hitchcock. The hotel served as a meeting place during WWII for President Roosevelt and Sir Winston Churchill.
Centrally located amid the festival activities, Le Château Frontenac also serves a great breakfast buffet to prepare you for the day’s events. At night, the surrounding area becomes even more magical. Street lamps circling the hotel illuminate the boardwalk overlooking the glistening skyline of the
St. Lawrence.

But for an even more dramatic sight during evening hours, don’t miss the spectacular fireworks show coloring the waterfalls in a crimson glow from the Parc de la Chute Montmorency as part of the International Fireworks Competition.

Though winter turns Quebec into a Christmas postcard, the summertime was a perfect time for me to experience the city’s rich, historic past and joie de vivre. The sounds, tastes and
aromas of the city are in full force. From French country cooking to nouvelle cuisine, quaint Quebec offers a plentiful array of first-rate restaurants amid a bevy of boutiques, bookstores, cafes and galleries. The best selection of eateries is along the Grande Allée to restaurant row. This expansive boulevard is teeming with places to dine outdoors and people watch.

Parc de la Chute_Montmorency (Montmorency Falls)

One of my favorite culinary experiences was at Gambrinus, just a short walk from Le Château Frontenac. The restaurant offers a reasonable and savory business lunch. Their outrageous chocolate cake topped off a most memorable meal.

The ambiance also was quite pleasing. The windows were draped with hanging vines along the gray stone walls. Every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evening, musicians perform.

Just below Gambrinus stands the Vieux-Port (Old Port). I was glad that I had good walking shoes to descend the hilly paths to and from the port area, where I was able to explore a district enriched with art galleries. All along the neighboring streets I encountered brightly colored hanging flower baskets and window boxes adorning the store fronts of the stone buildings dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. A funicular or steep stairway is another way to descend to the water and browse the popular shopping area, the Quartier Petit Champlain.

Returning to the center of the Old Town, I walked along the colorful Rue St. Louis and discovered Rue Dauphine and the Literary and Historical Society, once a prison, where on Saturdays at 1:00 children’s stories are read. Though no children showed up the day I arrived, Monique, the storyteller, continued to read books to the only two adults present. I have to admit that I was totally engrossed in Monique’s tales and velvety voice. I couldn’t remember the last time I had a fairytale read to me—and so apropos for this storybook city of Quebec.

For further information on Quebec City, go to www.quebecregion.com, or contact Office du Tourism de Quebec at (418) 641-6654. For information specific to the festival, contact www.quebec400.qc.ca