Hidden waterfalls, rolling pastureland, rocky cliffs and stunning sunsets frame the island of Maui, a destination made to soothe the heart and soul.
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near Hana clanks in the wind,
creating a natural chime.
The dawn is just breaking over Ho’okipa Beach where a handful of surfers are challenging the crashing waves. The crowd is sparse; a few of us sip lattes as we marvel at the prowess and courage of these remarkable athletes. The Hawaiian Islands are world famous for surfing, and Maui has some of the best waves around. Though we could sit in the balmy breeze for hours, we’re eager to explore and discover more of this magnificent island.
Maui is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands, and many believe its diversity makes it one of the most fascinating and beautiful destinations in the Pacific. The island is a microcosm of the world’s climates and terrains. Though the island is a mere 26 miles across at its widest point, within its shores you can experience the brilliance of a lava flow, the lushness of rainforests, dramatic beaches and the alpine tundra of a dormant volcano.
Perhaps it’s the distance that also sets Maui apart. The Hawaiian Islands are the most remote places on earth, with the nearest continent 2,500 miles away.
cuisine and fiery entertainment.
It’s no wonder that time seems to slow and nature comes to life.
There’s no better evidence of Maui’s appeal than to spend an afternoon whale watching. Pacific humpbacks make the 3,000-mile trek from the frigid waters of Alaska to bask in
Maui’s eternal sunshine and protected sanctuary. The whales put on a spectacular show, slapping their flukes, waving their tails and leaping high into the air.
The day is slowly fading, but the evening’s just begun. We head to the Feast at Lele Luau and are quickly greeted with fresh flower leis. As the sun turns from gold to copper, we dine on traditional Polynesian dishes—fresh island fish, poi, baked breadfruit and grilled steak while entertained by the sounds of Tahitian music. Samoan fire knife dancers astonish guests with their amazing dexterity as they pass flaming knives through their legs and around their bodies. It’s a perfect evening in Maui.
Stretching across east Maui is Haleakala National Park, home to the Haleakala Crater, an active but not currently erupting volcano. Rising over 10,000 feet above sea level, the crater’s graceful slopes can be seen from almost any point on the island. Travel to the top of the highest peak and you literally walk above the clouds. The rich landscapes and untamed wilderness are perfect for hiking. Within the park you’ll discover lush tropical areas, splashing waterfalls and refreshing streams. For the truly motivated, get up early (very early, it’s a long drive to the top) and view the sunrise from the crest of the crater. It’s well worth the effort, and the view is spectacular.
cascades over a sheer lava rock wall.
Next up is the legendary road to Hana. Before visiting Maui, I’d heard stories of this curvy highway that twists and turns for miles. Let’s just say it’s unlike any other driving experience you’ll encounter. This wiggly road is a mere 42 miles in length but contains 54 bridges and 600 hairpin turns. The view is spectacular, if somewhat alarming, as you lean out the window to view the sheer cliffs below, seemingly inches from the rims of your tires. The mantra here is to take your time, turn up some Hawaiian music and enjoy the scenery. Many of the bridges are one lane, so manners matter. Give the locals a break and yield the right of way. There are a few fruit stands and small shops along the way, as well as areas to pull off. You’ll often find a wayward waterfall nestled in the lush rainforest near these respites.
At the very end of the road is Hana, the Shangri-La of Maui. We arrive at Hotel Hana-Maui, a 66-acre retreat with cabins overlooking the surging Pacific Ocean. The friendly staff echoes greetings of aloha as they whisk you around the resort on golf carts. The onsite Honua Spa pampers guests with nurturing massages, facials and a lava rock whirlpool. It’s the perfect romantic getaway, a wonderful blend of Hawaiian heritage and
natural beauty.
The Haleakala National Park continues in Hana, and hiking is a must here. Our destination—the majestic Waimoku Falls. Located above the Seven Sacred Pools of Oheo Gulch, the Pipiwai Trail winds upslope, passing several smaller waterfalls and pools. The remains of a sugar mill dam and flumes of the late 1800s also can be seen along the trail before passing over foot bridges and through an intriguing bamboo forest. The towering bamboo is packed tightly, creating a cool, shaded walk. Boardwalks have been built to make for an easy trek through the trees. As the wind blows, the bamboo clanks, creating a natural wind chime. The dense forest parts to reveal the stunning 400-foot Waimoku Falls. The free-falling water cascades down a sheer lava rock wall before crashing on the boulders below. The sun has warmed the huge rocks and we lunch leisurely, serenaded by the sounds of the lyrical birds in the forest.
Before leaving Hana, we head to the Honokalani Black Sand Beach. There are more than 80 beaches in Maui, with the sand varying from white to copper to brilliant black pebbles, the result of volcanic activity on the island. At Honokalani, one of the most famous beaches in Maui, we explore a seaside lava “tube” and ocean-swept caves. The Pacific waters are cool, but refreshing.
I take a small handful of black sand, a memento of Maui, the Hawaiian island that lives aloha.