By Robert W. Bone

Blessed with a gentle climate, beautiful beaches and flowers, and inviting music and dance, the Hawaiian Islands have represented everyone’s dream vacation for more than 100 years. Mark Twain called them “the loveliest fleet of islands anchored in any ocean.” Moreover, the islands offer something called the “Aloha spirit,” a congenial attitude among residents toward malihinis—newcomers—a tradition that dates back to the earliest explorers in the 18th century.

Today the population of Hawaii, our 50th state, represents a fascinating stew of cultures. It is not only the Polynesians, the first occupants of the islands, but a combination of ethnic groups, including Japanese, Chinese, Koreans, Filipinos and even Portuguese.

Six main islands, each with its individual set of characteristics, are available for exploration by malihinis. There are frequent flights between them, and the cruise ships of the world stop at several of them, too.

Oahu
Honolulu, the capital, statistically includes the entire island of Oahu. Counting both urban and rural dwellers, the population numbers a little more than 900,000, or about three-quarters of the entire state, which adds up to 1.3 million.

Here is action-packed Waikiki, its famous beach backgrounded by the distinctive profile of the dormant volcano called Diamond Head. Over the past 50 years, Waikiki has become the epitome of the successful resort area. Its hotels, restaurants, and night clubs, added to the timeless lure of sand and surf, make a successful vacation for a wide variety of travelers.

Dozens of large hotels include the 1901 Moana (now part of the Sheraton Moana-Surfrider) and the 1925 Royal Hawaiian. They are considered the two grande dames of the beach. But a few good addresses just a short walk from the shore may be booked for about half the fare for the beachside behemoths.

Oahu is not all Waikiki. Three miles away, downtown Honolulu has structures relating to the Hawaiian monarchy and the missionaries who brought western concepts to Hawaii. Iolani Palace is called the only royal palace in the United States and was the official residence of King Kalakaua and Queen Liliuokalani, the last monarch of Hawaii, from 1882 to 1893. A newer development downtown is the Aloha Tower Marketplace, an attractive waterfront shopping complex surrounding the famous old tower that greets all incoming cruise ships.

Then there’s rural Oahu, partly paved with pineapple fields, and ringed by a group of attractive, seldom-used beaches, many of them special finds for adventurous visitors in rental cars. And don’t miss visiting the floating memorial over the sunken battleship U.S.S. Arizona out at Pearl Harbor.

Maui
The most popular of the “Neighbor Islands,” Maui exudes a surprising degree of sophistication, though at a pace of life somewhat slower than Oahu. There are well-manicured golf courses, along with a considerable area of wilder green and mountainous acreage that is seldom explored, except by hiking or riding horseback.

West Maui, dominated by the West Maui Mountains (peaks formed from an ancient, deeply eroded volcano), is anchored by the old whaling village of Lahaina. It was the scene of so much missionary versus merchant/sailor conflict in James Michener’s novel Hawaii. Near Lahaina is the Kaanapali resort area, which lines an especially broad strip of beach.

East Maui is monopolized by one giant volcano that the Hawaiians called Haleakala. It means, literally, the “House of the Sun,” and it is the traditional place to watch the sunrise for those who drive up to the 10,000-foot summit before dawn.

Maui’s beaches are legendary. Pristine and sheltered, especially on the leeward coasts, they have been lauded on top 10 lists for years. One of the best is the stretch of white sand at Kaanapali. But you can’t dismiss the beaches of Kihei and the continuous coves Wailea and Makena.

Even Hana’s Hamoa Beach has received accolades for having the perfect wave. The water and wind conditions on the north shore bring surfers and windsurfers to Maui from around the world.

Kauai
Isolated Kauai is known as the Garden Island. The island’s main attraction is its natural beauty and the unassuming lifestyle of its people. With only about 10 percent of the island accessible by road, it’s a hiker’s paradise waiting to be explored.

There is always something going on somewhere—free hula shows, coffee plantation tours, a ride on a slow boat up the river. You can rent a bike and fly down a mountain, find a kayak and paddle upstream, go diving, horseback riding or sport fishing. You can go to a luau, listen to Hawaiian musicians strumming soft guitars or just stare at the moon.

Molokai
The small, slipper-shaped island of Molokai is seldom visited by travelers. Nevertheless, on the extreme western end, the relatively rustic Molokai Ranch, on a challenging 18-hole golf course, beckons to those who do so.

Things to see on the island include the former leprosy colony of Kalaupapa, a beautiful area destined to become a national park, and for those who make the long 100-mile round-trip to the east end, the dramatic Halawa Valley. Now virtually deserted, Halawa was once the home of thousands of Hawaiians.

Lanai
Even smaller than Molokai, privately owned Lanai is traditionally known as the Pineapple Island, because of its previous position as the largest single pineapple plantation in the world. However, the prickly fruit is now out of production there. In the past few years, a must-see on the island is Kanepu’u, or the Garden of the Gods. Created by strong winds, a blistering sun and an extremely dry climate, the garden of giant black stones and red mounds evoke eery images at sunset.

The Island of Hawaii
Throughout the state, it is known simply as the Big Island, since it officially has the same name as the entire state.

It is also called the Orchid Island, an important component of the famous Hawaiian lei. In its early history, Hawaiians had no precious stones or metals, their jewelry came from the land and sea—garlands of flowers, ferns, shells and feathers. Lei’s are still given today to mark every occasion in a person’s life and a symbol of welcome to visitors to their island.

The Big Island is also famous for a volcanic eruption that has been ongoing almost continuously since 1983. The 2000-degree lava often pours dramatically into the ocean at the edge of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Rangers try to help visitors get close views and still remain on safe, solid ground, but the most dramatic experience is still had by hovering in a helicopter over the flow.

Through the island, the Polynesian culture of ancient Hawaii has welcomed and absorbed myriad art and traditions from Asia and Europe, creating a unique and colorful mix. Dance the hula and enjoy succulent island fare at an authentic luau. Upcountry, discover the uniquely blended Hawaiian, Portuguese and Mexican cultures—still alive and well among Hawaii’s paniolos (cowboys) on the Big Island’s giant ranches.

With all that there is to see and do in Hawaii, you’re sure to have a wonderful time, whichever island you choose.

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