By Phyllis W. Zeno

Closer to Cuba than it is to Miami, Key West boasts the flavor of both in what has become a favorite cruise port as well as a driving destination.

The trans-Keys railroad opened up the area to tourism in the early ’30s, and it remained a popular getaway for Easterners until a 1935 Labor Day hurricane wiped out the railroad, and for three years, the only access to Key West was by boat.

Attracted by its inaccessibility, famous writers and artists were drawn to its shores...Ernest Hemingway being the leader of the pack in 1931. The Overseas Highway opened in 1938, and more and more mavericks drifted to its boarding houses and seaside villas.

In the late ’40s, Tennessee Williams moved there and remained until his death in 1983. Ornothologist James Audubon and poet Robert Frost lived there, and President Truman’s Little White House still remains as a museum.

Now the pier at Mallory Square opens a charming vista to cruisers with gingerbread houses and typical Key West architecture that enhances a visit to an area that is only a stone’s throw from the pier.

Still the best way to get an overview of the town itself is to hop on the Conch Train and circle the island.

From Mallory Square, the center of downtown Key West, you can walk to several of the key points of interest...the Aquarium, the Mel Fisher Museum with relics from the sunken treasure ship Atocha, and the Audubon House. If you’re on the train or the trolley, you get a dollar off the nominal admission charge at many of the attractions.

South on Whitehead Street is Ernest Hemingway’s home, where he wrote most of his novels, including For Whom the Bell Tolls, A Farewell to Arms and The Snows of Kilimanjaro. Descendants of his 50 cats...most of them six-toed...still prowl the grounds.

Shopping is pricey, but art galleries abound and boutiques offer everything from hand-rolled cigars to tropical clothing to bizarre crafts. Pet lovers will adore the Blue Cat, a cat and dog boutique, featuring gifts, clothing and accessories for pets and their people. Locally-made “Island Dog” and “Island Cat” tropical collars make great souvenirs. It’s in historic Clinton Square Market Mall next to the bright red Customs House Museum.

Touched by the Sun and Del Sol both feature color changing souvenirs with an entire line of color changing items, including nail polish, rings, Frisbees, hair accessories, tote bags, hats, etc.

Cigar smokers will head for Tropical Republic of Fine Cigars with the Keys’ largest humidor displaying over 400 faces of cigars.

The only Key Lime specialty gourmet shop in Key West is the Key Lime Shoppe between Greene and Dey Streets and features fresh Key Lime pie, cookies, candies, juice, jelly and even Key Lime biscotti.

Some of the world’s most beautiful reefs surround Key West, offering snorkelers and divers a colorful array of underwater attractions. Some of the best beaches are Higgs, Smarthers, Zachary Taylor, and the one at the Marriott’s Casa Marina Resort.

If you’re looking for entertainment, try Rick’s & Durty Harry’s. Their nine bars offer entertainment from mid-afternoon to 4 a.m. The Tree Bar and Patio sits on Duval Street. Rick’s Downstairs has live entertainment. Durty Harry’s Bar has live rock ‘n’ roll and a TV wall broadcasting all major sporting events. Rick’s Upstairs is Key West’s leading dance club, and the Red Garter offers adult entertainment.

Fat Tuesday serves frozen drinks seven days a week starting at 10 a.m. It’s famous for Jell-o shots with whipped cream. Look for it at 305 Duval Street.

Claiming to be the most southern Hard Rock in the USA (do they know about Hawaii?), this popular hangout is celebrating 30 years of rock ‘n’ roll. It offers memorabilia from a vest worn by Jimi Hendrix to a leather jacket worn and signed by Michael Jackson.

The three-story Victorian house is supposedly haunted by the original owner, Robert Curry. Dining possibilities are endless. You can’t go wrong at Billy Fish on the Sunset Pier at the Ocean Key Resort. It’s famous for great seafood, cool cocktails and hot music. The raw bar serves oysters, shrimp and stone crab in season.

Hog’s Breath Saloon has a full raw bar, fresh grilled sandwiches, fresh conch fritters and live entertainment.

Sloppy Joe’s labels itself A Key West Tradition, and the same fresh and tasty array of seafood items has kept visitors coming back for years. You’ll enjoy the Hemingway memorabilia as well as live entertainment, cold tropical drinks and platters of fresh seafood.

Whether you’re in the mood for a full meal or not, do treat yourself to some local conch. It’s awesome!

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