By Sally Moe

My first memory of Cooperstown is always the drive. Up and further up into the hills we would climb, the spectacular view opening up, the aqua vista of Lake Otsego expanding on our left...driving closer to the lake, the trees that hugged the shoreline would fill the air with their mossy perfume, while bright staccato glimpses of the lake strobed between them as we rushed by.

Cooperstown is also the memory of quaint shuttered homes huddled together a mere sidewalk’s distance from the street. And of the drive back, when I would scour the shoreline for a sight of quirky, castle-like Kingfisher Tower...my consolation prize for having to leave.

Perched at the southern tip of glacier-formed Lake Otsego—the source of the Susquehanna River—and nicely located between the Adirondack and Catskills state parks, Cooperstown draws scores of visitors just like me year after year to revel in its scenic beauty, year-round recreational pursuits, charming ambiance and vigorous arts community. And its most famous resident, the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, lures nearly half a million baseball fans every year, particularly during the annual Induction Ceremonies. This year’s Ceremony, to be conducted—as always—during the Hall of Fame Weekend, will commence Sunday, July 28.

March of 2002 saw the premier of Baseball As America, a four-year traveling exhibition mounted by the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum in association with 10 of the nation’s leading museums. And it couldn’t have come at a better time. An exploration of America’s pastime that is both revealing and inspirational, Baseball As America encourages a new appreciation not only of baseball—but of our national character. Currently at the American Museum of Natural History in New York City (until August 18), the exhibition will visit nine other cities across the U.S., culminating at Houston’s Museum of Fine Arts in the summer of 2005.

Why Cooperstown for the Hall of Fame? It is believed that, just down the street, Abner Doubleday played the very first baseball game in 1839 at the former Elihu Phinney cow pasture, now Doubleday Field. Hall of Fame games are played annually at Doubleday Field for thousands of fans from the U.S. and Canada; local day games fill the stands the rest of the season. Whether or not the first baseball game was actually played in that cow pasture, the village is a fitting symbolic site for the game’s origin, with its obvious devotion to the sport and undeniable aura of classic, rural Americana.

Founded in 1786 by Judge William Cooper (the first judge of Otsego County and father of writer James Fenimore Cooper), the village of Cooperstown has been referred to, not surprisingly, as “the home of baseball,” as well as “the village of museums,” “leatherstocking country” and “America’s most perfect village.” Whatever the appellation, there is something for nearly everybody to enjoy here, whether during a quick refreshing getaway or a relaxing week. History buffs can explore local history and lore, artifacts, antiques and vintage architecture during visits to the Farmer’s Museum, Fenimore House, the Inn at Cooperstown and Hyde Hall National Historic Landmark. Drama and music fans can take in July and August performances of the Glimmerglass Opera, as well as the Cooperstown Chamber Music Festival and the Cooperstown Concert Series. Lovers of nature and the outdoors can explore the cool, drippy depths of Howe Caverns, about an hour’s drive away; fish for lake salmon, trout and largemouth bass in Lake Otsego; or visit nearby Glimmerglass State Park for its nature trails, canoeing, kayaking, picnicking and camping in the summer—or ice fishing, cross-country skiing and snowtubing in the winter.

Art aficionados can check out the scene at centrally located Cooperstown Art Association—which features regional and national annual exhibitions, storytelling events, craft sales and quilt shows—as well as drop by the Fenimore Art Museum or one of the appealing galleries in town. Photography enthusiasts will find a wealth of material for memorable images: the bustling village with its Federal and Victorian architecture; the sparkling turquoise lake rimmed with forested hills; the venerable Otesaga Resort Hotel with its sweeping neo-Georgian veranda—offering an excellent view of Lake Otsego and overlooking the 18th green of the Leatherstocking Golf Course. Fitness buffs can hike, jog or bike through the village, canoe the clear waters of the lake or join the final leg of the Glimmerglass Triathlon on the 22-mile route around the lake each August.

After a day packed with that kind of activity, one can certainly work up an appetite. For something different, dine alfresco at the Blue Mingo Grill (named for the local Indian tribe of Blue Mingo who appeared in the works of James Fenimore Cooper), at Sam Smith’s Boatyard about two miles north of town. The chalkboard menu changes nightly, but anticipate mouthwatering fare like roast duck with chipotle sauce and wild mushroom and goat cheese Napoleon. Does pan-fried lump crab and crawfish cake—finished with a Creole mustard beurre blanc—sound yummy? Then pay a visit to Hoffman Lane Bistro...but be sure to save room for the zabaglione. And the popular Pepper Mill serves up such dinnertime hits as fresh-seared scallops Mornay and seafood pasta marinara—sauteed shrimp, scallops and mussels with fresh pasta, tossed in marinara.

But for a truly memorable evening of dining to candlelight and piano music, don’t miss dinner in the elegant main dining room of the four-diamond-rated Otesaga Resort Hotel. The creative and varied menu concentrates on foods from central New York state, and proffers a selection of fine domestic wines. Designed in 1909 by New York architect Percy Griffin, the Otesaga Resort Hotel is a member of the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s prestigious Historic Hotels of America.

Furthermore, the Otesaga is considered by many to be one of the top golf resorts in the U.S. Its challenging Leatherstocking Golf Course, which was designed in 1909 by Devereux Emmet and follows the contours of Lake Otsego, is often described as one of the most scenic courses in the country.

All of which means...if you can’t think of anything worth exploring or experiencing or seeing or tasting in Cooperstown, perhaps you should just stay home. And alphabetize your spice rack.

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