By Tom Wuckovich

As you look out over the harbor of Charlotte Amalie, there is a cluster of boats of various types and sizes, holding steadfast against the winds tumbling down the hillside heavy with the hot breath of summer.

The port in the capital of St. Thomas is the most visited in the Caribbean, enticing tourists, traders, yachtsmen and modern-day explorers in vast numbers—much as it has since it was first discovered by Columbus in 1493. What a sight it must have been for the early Arawak Indians as they peered out to the horizon and glimpsed those billowing white sails of the Spanish galleons, ships that were about to change the world—and change the course of history for all the Virgin Islands.

In time, more strangers would come here, some good...some not so good— such as the infamous Blackbeard—but over time, swelling the population of the islands and helping them evolve into prominence in a variety of ways. Along the historic waterfront of St. Thomas, now a modern-day shopping district, are the restored 17th- and 18th-century warehouses that were once bloated with molasses, rum, spices and other trade goods awaiting export. Ships nearly 10 times the size of those early four-masters disgorge passengers by the thousands who come to sample the shopping, storied beaches, and explore the colonial forts, restored plantations, greathouse museums and contemporary art galleries housing the work of local artists.

Seven flags have flown over St. Thomas, St. John and St. Croix since their discovery centuries ago. Before being acquired in 1917 from Denmark for a mere $25 million, the islands were ruled in succession by the Spanish, English, French, Knights of Malta and the Danes. Danish influence is still prevalent on the islands, evidenced by street, town and area names and buildings such as Fort Christian, an imposing structure built in 1672 as a means to protect the prized harbor. It’s now a museum where early island memorabilia and old maps trace the islands’ history. Another building erected as part of the Danish government’s attempt to secure St. Thomas is Blackbeard’s Castle on Government Hill, the only 17th-century fortified tower in the Caribbean. The former residence and observatory is on the National Register of Historic Places and today doubles as a popular hotel and restaurant.

Government Hill is also the site of the home of Peter von Scholten, the first harbormaster of St. Thomas, and later governor general of the Danish West Indies. Vacationers can visit the Crown House, but it is now a private residence. Von Scholten moved to Christiansted, St. Croix, in 1822, then the capital of the Virgin Islands. Further up the hill is Seven Arches Museum, a museum that offers a glimpse into the 18th-century lifestyle of the island’s Danish ancestors.

Keep climbing and visit Government House, established in the 20th century. The stately white facility has long represented the center of official life in St. Thomas. Visitors can tour the building’s first two floors and trace the political happenings of the island. When you’ve reached the top of the hill, you’ll find Drake’s Seat, a vantage point where Sir Francis Drake could survey his ships and those of his enemies during the days when the islands were fought over on a regular basis. The promontory treats visitors to a breathtaking view of the harbor and its seemingly endless activity.

If you’re searching for a more laid back atmosphere, then St. John is the answer. The smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands at 19 square miles, it relishes its designation as a protected U.S. national park with over 9,500 acres set aside on land and an underwater reserve—combined, that’s nearly two-thirds of the size of the island. Its most famous beaches include Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay and Maho Bay.

There is a regular ferry service from Red Hook on St. Thomas to Cruz Bay, the island’s main town and once a busy port serving the sugar and rum industries. The abolition of slavery in 1848 for all the islands led to the eventual decline of sugar and cotton plantations, but there are still ruins of plantations to visit. Cruz Bay has developed a large tourism base in recent years, and visitors now can roam through an eclectic mix of boutiques, art galleries, bars and fine restaurants while sampling St. John’s slow pace.

Some of the best snorkeling is in Trunk Bay, where a marked underwater trail leads visitors on a fantastic journey amid the bay’s colorful marine life.

St. Croix, the largest of the U.S.V.I. at 28 miles long and seven miles wide, is more easily accessed by air from St. Thomas. The island lies entirely in the Caribbean Sea and features pastel buildings and charming shops in both the historic towns of Christiansted and Frederiksted. St. Croix was the first island discovered by Columbus during his second voyage to America. He landed on the northern shore of the island and named it Santa Cruz (Holy Cross).

St. Croix is rich in diverse history that is easily discernible in the architecture, national parks, landmarks, botanical attractions, food, music and cultural traditions. A museum of note is the restored 18th-century Whim Plantation that also includes a sugar mill. The museum contains an immaculate collection of sturdy mahogany furniture and hand-carved mahogany artwork in a traditional style that reflects the talent of St. Croix master craftsmen of long ago.

Offshore, Buck Island National Monument is one of only two underwater national monuments in the U.S., and the only one occurring naturally. Expect to encounter tropical fish, coral reefs and other exotic flora and fauna in a dramatic array of colors during a snorkeling experience through the monument’s 700 acres of protected national park.

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