Story and Photos by Tom Wuckovich

Melnik in the Czech Republic is noted for its wine making.

>The Elbe River
>Rhine, Main and Danube
>Russian Waterways

They are small ships with a big upside. They can go to destinations that many larger ships can’t—or won’t—affording passengers who love cruising a meaningful alternative to the mega-ships that currently ply the world’s oceans.

Cruising the fabled rivers of Europe has become one of the hottest trends in travel. You can walk right off your ship into the heart of your destination and experience cosmopolitan cities and quaint villages you can’t reach on a tour bus or ocean cruise. The included excursions are with English-speaking guides, but many are locals, well versed in the history and culture of the region. And each river has its own unique story, with many contributing to the actual rise of the nearby cities and towns.

Most of the river names are familiar, such as the Elbe, the Rhine, the Main and the Danube, or the Seine. Then there are the waterways of the czars in Russia or the canals of Holland.

The Elbe River

The Elbe River, one of the most storied rivers in Europe, flows languidly from the Czech Republic through northeastern Germany. River ships that sail the Elbe offer an alternating itinerary—from Berlin to Prague or Prague to Berlin, with fascinating destinations in between. The journey, usually 12 days and 11 nights or more, provides inspiring views of towering cliffs, rococo palaces and charming riverside towns. On either end of the sail, many include two-day pre-cruise or two-day post-cruise stays in Prague and Berlin. Or both.

Prague has often been called “the Paris of Eastern Europe.” Paris should be flattered. This historic city is a visitor’s delight, and one of its best features is that it’s a walking city. On a typical day, you can explore the beautiful Prague Castle and its massive complex that includes palaces, churches and museums. Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral is an architectural masterpiece that begs to be photographed. Inevitably, you will find your way to the city’s Old Town and the famous 15th-century Astronomical Clock at the Old Town Hall.

The dial of the clock contains a moving figure of death, and in the upper part, beginning every hour from 9 a.m.-9 p.m., the procession of the 12 apostles in succession appears at the window. Thousands come to photograph the technical marvel created by an unknown watchmaker, wander the broad square beneath it, or pause to enjoy the colorful sights from one of the cozy cafes. Franz Kafka liked to stroll the winding alleys in the old town, penning his stories and novels from Prague cafes, and Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart conducted the world premiere of his opera, Don Giovanni, here.

There is enough time before the cruise to visit the pedestrian-only Charles Bridge, stroll Wenceslas Square and visit the Josefov Quarter (Prague’s Jewish Quarter), once a center of Jewish mysticism and thought. The Old Jewish Cemetery is nearby and due to space limitations, and the Jewish tradition that graves are never to be disturbed, thousands of graves are crowded together in a dozen layers.

When the cruising portion of your trip begins, the first observation you’ll make is how smooth and gentle it is on the rivers. There are no large waves, no rocking of the ship, and you’ll dock in the heart of the towns and cities you will visit—no tenders needed here. The service on board is comparable to the larger ships and includes roomy cabins, five-star meals and entertainment. Most of the shore excursions are included in the cost of the cruise.

Rhine, Main and Danube

The astronomical clock in Prague’s Old Town is seen through an archway.

The ancient Romans used the waterways of the Rhine and Danube rivers in their northward conquest. The presence of the Roman armies spurred the growth of many of the cities found today along the three rivers. You can travel on an unforgettable journey on these waterways, winding from the North Sea through the heart of Europe to the Black Sea. Enjoy natural wonders like the beautiful Wachau Valley and the engineering marvel of the Main-Danube Canal. Hilltop castles, lush vineyards and gorgeous countryside are right outside your ship.

The Wachau Valley is one of the most prominent destinations in Austria and is nestled between the towns of Melk and Krems along the Danube. The restored Melk Abbey is one of Europe’s great sights. Established as a fortified Benedictine abbey in the 11th century, it was destroyed by fire. What you see today is 18th-century Baroque.

As you sail leisurely toward Krems, the north bank of the river has several picturesque towns, including Willendorf, known to many art buffs as the place where the oldest piece of European art was found.

The most notable cities found on these river cruises are Budapest, Vienna, Nuremberg and Bratislava.

Russian Waterways

The Soviet Union is long gone, but its history and mystery remain, and some of the best insights to what the USSR was all about comes from visiting the smaller towns and cities in the heartland of this vast country. Of course, you also don’t want to miss the opportunity to see cosmopolitan Moscow and St. Petersburg, with all their palaces, great churches, museums and historic sites, such as Red Square and the Kremlin. Many river ships cruise from Moscow to St. Petersburg—or reverse—through the Volga-Baltic Waterway that connects the Volga River to the Baltic Sea through an intricate network of canals that join lakes and smaller rivers. Some of the ships tend to be a little older, which can provide an added air of romance with their unique designs and amenities. Before you book, check with your local AAA Travel Professional for more information about specific ships. The Volga was already an important trade route in the 8th century, and now it allows you to explore the natural highways of Russia with a trip down the imperial rivers. On your journey, you’ll see the grand monuments and opulent palaces of the czars.

You won’t get the feeling that the KGB is still lurking about when you visit St. Petersburg, established by Peter the Great after a long war with Sweden. Floods, collapsing foundations and disease related to the swampy land hampered construction, but despite the problems, a magnificent city emerged. Catherine the Great, who succeeded her husband after he was murdered, built most of the palaces and brought art, much of it contained in the Hermitage, the Winter Palace of the Czars. The gold-trimmed green-and-white palace now houses one of the world’s finest collections, with many of the best-known artists of the Renaissance and pre-Renaissance periods represented. The museum contains more than 2.7 million works and it is said that if a person were to stand before each work of art for only one minute, the visit would take more than five years.

Rapeseed fields are quite prevalent in Germany. Rapeseed is grown for the production of animal feed, vegetable oil for human consumption and biodiesel fuel.

Among the most important sites are Palace Square, Peter and Paul Fortress, which is more or less the center of the city, and Peterhof Palace. Peterhof is reached by hydrofoil and is one of the most brilliant of all the summer residences of the Russian czars. Peter the Great wanted to have a palace and garden that would rival Versailles, and he certainly achieved his goal. Though it was destroyed during WWII, it has been restored to its original splendor. The opulent buildings and manicured grounds also shed light on the disparity between the rich and poor and offers strong evidence of the aristocracy’s disregard of the plight of the peasants. The Russian Revolution started and ended in this city.

Sail through history and culture in style and comfort on board one of your chosen floating hotels. See the passing countryside and the legendary imperial cities as well as small towns and villages. Learn about the intriguing history of Russia through comprehensive sightseeing tours and onboard guest lectures.

The opulence of Russia’s past and present are evident in the spectacular art and architecture. Relax on the banks of the river and see the legendary onion domes and Kremlin of Moscow to the stunning landmarks and canals of St. Petersburg.

On a Dnieper River cruise, you explore ancient cities and grand monuments, and encounter a vibrant culture rich in tradition. With tours in Kiev, Yalta and Odessa, you experience Ukraine’s history firsthand by visiting Yalta’s famed White Palace and walking Odessa’s Potemkin Steps. Learn about the maritime history of Sevastopol, explore Kiev’s Monastery of the Caves and immerse yourself in Cossack traditions of Zaporozhye.

You can do all this and more on a river cruise.

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