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Masked by news reports of blue-tarped homes and drenched residents, the city of New Orleans catches one by surprise. It’s a city filled with the lively enthusiasm and character we’ve come to know and love for years. Simply put, The Big Easy is back. While outlying areas continue to show the effects of Hurricane Katrina, much of the city, including the French Quarter, restaurants, blues clubs, Riverfront and the Garden District are as colorful as ever. In fact, visitors to the city would never suspect that New Orleans proper was a victim of the infamous storm.
Jazz music from restaurants and clubs drifts through the Vieux Carré (Old Square), or French Quarter, to intertwine with the sweet scent of beignets from Café du Monde. Ranked the best beignets in New Orleans, this sweet sugary pastry is served with rich, steaming cups of café au lait. Little doubt the stylish architecture of the French Quarter is one of its most compelling draws. The European-influenced homes and buildings are renowned for their graceful curves, while picturesque fences and balconies are noted for their intricate iron lacework. La Nouvelle Orléans was founded in 1718 by Jean Baptiste La Moyne and established as the capital of Louisiana. Centered around the Place d’ Armes, now Jackson Square, New Orleans was confined to what is now called the French Quarter. Due to the unique geography of the Mississippi River, it was the perfect fortress to maintain control of the North American interior for the French. Possession of Louisiana (named by René Robert Cavalier in honor of Louis XIV and his Austrian bride Queen Anne), changed from French to Spanish then back to French control before being sold to the United States in 1803. Although Spanish rule was relatively short, lasting from 1762 to 1800, it was during this period when two fires virtually destroyed the French Quarter. The first in 1788 burned over 850 structures, and then another 200 were lost in 1794. Rebuilding was done in the Spanish style with the wrought iron balconies and central courtyards that are synonymous with the area. Many buildings date back to the rebuilding efforts of the 1700s, which is why the dominant architectural style is Spanish, not French. New Orleans is one of the most visually interesting cities in America and of significant historic importance. Many of the over 35,000 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places are in the French Quarter. Today, with buildings from the late 1700s to early 1900s, New Orleans boasts styles of architecture that vary greatly between the French Quarter, the Garden District and other areas of the city.
The French Quarter remains one of the most popular and visited areas of New Orleans—and all of Louisiana. In the center of the French Quarter lies Jackson Square, named for Andrew Jackson, who drove off the British in 1815 during the Battle of New Orleans. Here, local artisans line the picturesque streets with colorful works of art. You also can get an impromptu portrait created—which is more masterpiece than caricature creation. For a few dollars, clairvoyants read tarot cards and your palms to share the secret of your destiny. The French Quarter also is famous for its street performers, from impromptu blues, jazz and rockabilly musicians to mimes, magicians and comedians. Most perform for free—but appreciate a few coins tossed into a hat or open violin case. Overlooking Jackson Square is the St. Louis Cathedral. Dating back to 1794, it’s the oldest in the country. It’s open for tours, weddings and, of course, worship. Flanked on either side of the cathedral are the beautiful and ornate Cabildo and Presbytère, part of the Louisiana State Museum complex of national landmarks. The Cabildo houses thousands of artifacts and works of art reflecting Louisiana’s legacy of historic events and cultural diversity. It was also the site of the signing of the Lousiana Purchase. The Presbytère is now a Mardi Gras museum. A short stroll from Jackson Square is the French Market. Spanning over five blocks, the French Market features a Farmer’s Market, flea market, gift shops, upscale restaurants and outdoor cafés with live jazz. Strolling visitors are treated to a dazzling array of unique and colorful merchandise from scented soaps to handmade jewelry, t-shirts, masks, dolls and more. The open-air stalls of the Farmer’s Market are a delight for the senses with fresh fish, chocolates, scented teas, cheeses and aromatic spices.
Making your way over to the famous Bourbon Street, be prepared to meander and shop a bit. Throughout the French Quarter, quaint shops, antique stores, cafés and art galleries abound. Shop windows cleverly display the unique and wondrous array of offerings inside. It’s virtually impossible not to duck in for “just a peek.” Shops specialize in everything from handmade linens and lace to teas, upscale clothing, china and, of course, candy. Handmade confections are a way of life in New Orleans. The making of pralines is a spectator sport, as the gooey concoction of caramel and nuts are spooned onto marble slabs in windows for lucky passersby. Stop in for a taste of this delectable treat. The phrase "Laissez les bon temps rouler"—Let the good times roll—is exemplified by Bourbon Street’s non-stop party atmosphere. Lined with bars, jazz clubs, hotels, restaurants and boutiques, the atmosphere is fun and flowing. Jazz, blues and rock ‘n’ roll spill out onto the street to create a changing soundtrack as you walk from one block to another. If you’re ready to catch your breath, take a drive or tour through the genteel Garden District. Unlike the French Quarter’s small, elegant townhouses, the Garden District boasts huge antebellum mansions surrounded by manicured gardens taking you back to another era. Details abound on these historic and sultry homes, including Doric columns, wide verandas, etched-glass doors and ornate weather vanes. A number of well-known celebrities own homes in the district, and guided walking tours will take you by some of these famous and beautiful residences. Located in the District is the 385-acre Audubon Park, where visitors can enjoy the great outdoors amid lagoons and moss-draped oaks. The area also encompasses the Audubon Zoo, one of the top-ranked zoos in North America. Innovative natural habitat exhibits house a unique collection of animals ranging from extraordinary white alligators to the majestic Bengal tiger.
The Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, located near the Riverfront, has just reopened, and visitors can experience an indoor rainforest, a new animal collection and exciting big-screen IMAX adventures. Old favorites are back also, including nine beloved penguins and sea otters Buck and Emma, who flew home from California on May 22. But for many visitors to New Orleans, it’s all about the food. Ask a local to name a favorite dish and be prepared to spend a half hour discussing the color of roux, Cajun versus Creole, what makes a great gumbo and why oysters taste better here than anywhere else in the world. The gastronomic traditions of the city go back two centuries to the first French colonists in the 1720s. Seasonings are the lifeblood of good New Orleans cooking. Over the years, Africans, Spaniards, Germans and Sicilians contributed their own influences to form the Creole cuisine of today. Gastronomical pleasures begin at breakfast or brunch with poached eggs resting on artichoke hearts smothered in rich hollandaise, or Tchoupitoulas omelets (stuffed with indocile sausage and shrimp) covered in a rich Cajun sauce. For lunch, po-boy sandwiches and gumbo soothe the soul. Mother’s Restaurant is a local and visitor favorite for both of these classic New Orleans dishes. The modest cafeteria-style eatery belies the culinary delights waiting inside. Mother’s offers classic po-boys—battered oysters, shrimp or catfish in crusty French rolls topped with mayo, mustard, pickles and crispy cabbage.
As evening rolls around, decisions on dinner must be made. No easy feat in a city that’s known for pleasing the palate with traditional dishes as well as an eclectic assortment of inspired cuisines from Asia, Spain and the Mediterranean. Antoine’s is one of the most famous restaurants in the city and has been operated by the same family for 165 years. It boasts one of the finest wine cellars in the city and the country. Another popular haunt for foodies is one of Emeril Lagasse’s three restaurants in the city. Those who have followed Emeril’s career for the past couple of decades know that his rise to fame began in a New Orleans kitchen. After serving as chef of Commander’s Palace, Lagasse opened Emeril’s in 1990 in the Warehouse District. Two years later, Lagasse opened NOLA (shorthand for New Orleans’ address: N.O., LA). A renovated steakhouse became his third restaurant, Emeril’s Delmonico. Each menu has a unique and clever approach to good New Orleans cooking, such as the savory andouille-crusted redfish or hickory roasted duck with whisky caramel glaze and candied pecans. No matter which of the many wonderful New Orleans restaurants you choose, a unique and delicious culinary experience awaits. As with all of New Orleans, the heartbeat of the city resides in the locals. Through hard times and good times, New Orleans is a city of life, cherishing its past—and its future. |
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