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Grand Cayman Island Is Two Worlds in One
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| Top: Stingray City. Right: Caiman Sighting. Bottom:Iguana Crossing. |
Seven Mile Beach on Grand Cayman, the Cayman Islands' largest island, is a glorious stretch of white sand and blue sea arcing around gently to the shops, restaurants and duty-free stores of its capital, George Town. Properties such as the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman on the beach are wonderful spots for vacations, and the cruise port annually welcomes 200,000 passengers. Still a British territory, the Cayman Islands are a great destination for landlubbers looking for rest and relaxation, myriad dining opportunities and restorative sunshine.
An ideal way to get a taste of the islands is by ship, as numerous cruise lines have ports of call here. For those who'd prefer to stay on land, there are a variety of hotels throughout the islands fitting almost any vacation budget. From all-inclusive to secluded retreats—even family-friendly resorts—the Cayman Islands have it all.
Hire a car and visit the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Garden (on the east end of Grand Cayman), which the Queen herself attended for its opening in 1994. A popular destination for those who appreciate beautiful flora, it's also a favorite stop for bird watchers, as the gardens and lagoons attract species such as the endemic vitelline warbler, as well as its real star—the rare, also endemic, blue iguana. The gardens' gazebo is the perfect place to forget the world.
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| George Town |
Another spot on Grand Cayman that you'll enjoy telling people that you've been to is Hell, if only to send a postcard stamped "Hell" from its post office to be able to tell friends and family that on vacation you went to Hell and back. But before you leave, you'll want to actually take a closer look at the inspiration for the town's name: thousands of sharp limestone stalagmites in a pond about half the size of a football field. Despite its harsh appearance and name, Hell is beautiful in a forlorn sort of way.
My favorite beach on my visit was the minute Smith's Cove, a mile south of George Town. If you decide to visit this beach, be sure to bring snorkeling equipment.
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| Oro Verde |
While what you see on Grand Cayman is very pleasant, you can argue that its real beauty is actually under the surface. The island is a scuba-diving paradise, and I longed to see more, having previously not progressed beyond goggle and snorkel. I signed up with PADI, the scuba-diving association that teaches safe, responsible diving and hosts scuba events around the world—including one called Total Sub that was going on when I was there. The Caymans, I decided on a whim, was the perfect place to learn to scuba dive—primarily, I must confess, because its water is warm.
Experienced boat masters selected my two morning dives. On one, I dove to a sunken wreck called the Oro Verde, and on the other I dove Eagle Ray Pass, where I slowly swam through a canyon and arch.
There are ongoing efforts to protect the island's reef, and for good reason—it is mostly radiant. On one of my reef dives, I saw a Southern Atlantic stingray and a hawksbill turtle, both gliding along the bottom. I also spotted an octopus partially hidden in a rock wall and a tiny sea horse clung to a piece of coral.
Another underwater star is the flat peacock flounder, which when disturbed slowly submerges into its sandy bed. I watched as a huge green moray eel stuck its tail out through one hole in the reef and its head through another. Large hogfish swam around me in pairs—they are as curious about you as you are of them—and I marveled at juvenile spotted drums, a black-and-white fish with a gorgeous tail and dorsal fin. After my dive, I anxiously and excitedly studied field guides in order to put names to the animals I had seen. (I still cannot decide whether or not to be disappointed that I did not see a shark.)
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| Rum Point |
One of the Cayman's top attractions is Stingray City, where large numbers of rays congregate in shallow water, eating right from the tourists' hands. At Stingray City, you kneel on the sea floor as the stingrays swim up to you and suck squid from your hands. As disgusting as that may sound, it's actually an incredible experience.
And you'll also want to pay a visit to Rum Point, a remote bar, restaurant and beach, where Barefoot Man and his band entertained my group and soon had us taking off our shoes, too. Barefoot Man is quite a celebrity in the Caymans—a sort of Caymanian Jimmy Buffet. Even if his music is not to your taste, Rum Point is one of those Caribbean spots where worrying is not on the agenda; it turned out to be as peaceful as any spot I found in Neptune's realm.
Regardless of how and when you visit—whether it be on a cruise or as your sole destination—make sure the Cayman Islands are on your vacation to-do list.