 |
| The Garita, or sentry box, is one of Puerto Rico’s most iconic symbols. |
The massive 42-foot-high wall, La Muralla, proudly stands tall, enfolding and protecting her city, Old San Juan. Time and time again, the imposing city walls and its fortresses warded off attacks and remain a remarkable tribute to the spirit of San Juan.
- A Taste of Puerto Rico
- Lions and Tigers and Iguanas, Oh My!
- Puerto Rico's Emerald City
- Explore the Intriguing El Yunque Rainforest
 |
| The historic El Morro fortress once protected San Juan Bay. Photo: Puerto Rico Tourism Company |
All right, I confess, I am usually not a history buff. But that being said, I could not help but be enraptured by the sheer weight and historical beauty of this fortress wall and the city it defended. My husband Michael and I started our tour of Old San Juan along La Princesa walkway. By following its blue brick road, we were transported back in time to experience this classic fortress city and its centuries-old architecture.
This elegantly landscaped path follows the outer side of the city walls around the San Juan Bay and Atlantic surf. Along these walls are dome-covered sentry boxes known as Garitas, one of Puerto Rico’s most iconic symbols. Our guide José explained the sentry boxes served as sheltered lookout posts to keep watch for enemy intruders.
After visiting the island’s most famed fortress, El Morro, we headed down the blue cobblestone streets of Old San Juan. Although this charming district is only about seven square blocks, its streets are brimming with history, Spanish colonial-style architecture and old-world charm. Quaint, picturesque courtyards, wrought iron balconies and hanging baskets of flowers are reminiscent of the streets of Europe, and their hilly climbs are perfect for working up an appetite!
 |
| A stroll down an Old San Juan cobblestone street can reveal the famed La Fortaleza. Photo: Caren Ventrone |
A Taste of Puerto Rico
Thanks to an explosion of new restaurants, San Juan is considered the culinary capital of the Caribbean.
The cuisine reflects a fusion of European, Afro-Caribbean and Latin American cultures. For an updated twist on Puerto Rican specialties, try the ever-popular Parrot Club for their excellent ceviche—a citrus-marinated seafood dish of halibut, salmon, tuna and crab cakes. A posh experience awaits at KoCo OOF! restaurant in the swank El San Juan Hotel. Guests dine with the gentle sounds of water flowing along the walls while seated in a draped-island pergola.
 |
| Weekly Le Lo Lai performances showcase the island’s culture in Old San Juan. Photo: Puerto Rico Tourism Company |
Love to twirl your fork in a plate of homemade fettuccine? Alfredo’s Italian restaurant at the InterContinental serves up fresh pasta every day. Located on one of San Juan’s best beaches, our stay at the InterContinental offered the best of both worlds, convenient to the big city while being the perfect luxury getaway. We chose to dine at the Eighty20 Bistro, a South Beach-inspired restaurant offering modern interpretations of the classics such as carbonara lobster quesadillas. Yum!
Many of Puerto Rico’s restaurants offer discounted dining to AAA members. A list can be found online or at any AAA office.
After lunch, we decided to visit the Bacardi factory for a complimentary tour and a free rum tasting. The Bacardi Rum Factory in Cataño draws 150,000 visitors annually to tour its distillery, bottling plant and museum. A highlight of the tour was a presentation in Barcardi’s 1930s Art Deco bar, where skilled bartenders taught us how to make the perfect mojito along with some secret bartender techniques. My lips are sealed!
 |
| La Mina Falls offers a refreshing dip after hiking in the rainforest. Photo: Puerto Rico Tourism Company |
Lions and Tigers and Iguanas, Oh My!
As we drove to our next stop, Rio Grande, I found the route to be the ideal way to view Puerto Rico’s beaches. It seemed as if at every turn of the road white sandy beaches beckoned with the emerald green mountains of the rainforest as a backdrop.
We arrived at The Rio Mar Beach Resort & Spa, our home for the remainder of our stay. The resort boasts championship golf courses and a variety of water sports, as well as Club Iguana for kids. And speaking of iguanas, we were quite surprised (and fascinated) to find these friendly, prehistoric-looking reptiles lounging near the hotel pool. These non-indigenous iguanas can grow to more than six feet long, weigh up to 80 pounds, and at times contribute to flight delays by basking in the sun on airport runways!
Puerto Rico’s Emerald City
The resort is adjacent to the lush El Yunque National Forest, which is Rio Grande’s own natural version of the Emerald City. Did you know that a rainforest is even more complex than a computer? Or a city? More than 100 billion gallons of annual rainfall account for the lush foliage and the unusual combination of sparkling leaves, glittery rocks and shadowy paths pierced by sunlight. Since El Yunque’s paths are one of the island’s well-known hiking experiences, we decided the next day to hike the path to La Mina waterfalls.
 |
| Spectacular mountain views serve as the backdrop for Rio Mar’s championship golf course by Greg Norman. Photo: Rio Mar Beach Resort |
Note to those who are NOT regular hikers (like me): I found this trail a bit challenging, with some uphill climbs that left me with a glow of accomplishment. Or maybe I was just flushed. It has been said you can have your head in the rain clouds when hiking to the top of the mountain. I’m happy to take their word on that one.
Those who seek more excitement and speed can hop on an ATV and swashbuckle through the rainforest’s roots. The two-hour trail ride at the Hacienda Carabalí Ranch covers 10 miles of rugged trails. Since El Yunque is protected, the all-terrain vehicles are confined to the base—but there was plenty of starter rainforest to explore, rivers to splash through, and a rest stop for swimming.
For a not-to-be-missed nighttime adventure, be sure to book a kayak trip at Laguna Grande, a bioluminescent bay. This magical excursion through the mangroves provides a dreamscape experience on a moonless night. The bay is home to large colonies of microscopic organisms (dinoflagellates) that light up like fireflies when agitated. Swirling my hand underwater reminded me of writing in air with a sparkler. The stronger the movement, the brighter the glow. Nature lovers will not want to miss this phenomenal kayaking experience.
From a “Snuba” undersea tour to zip-lining the forest’s canopy, Puerto Rico’s outdoor Oz offers a dizzying choice of activities. But for now, I’m happy to click my heels together and plan for my next adventure.